A new deli and bodega is open in Fresno’s Tower District. Here’s what to expect
Carlos Moran hopes to one day drive his mint green Vespa scooter from his home in the neighborhood to his newly opened business MOTO Delicatessen & Bodega.
The little deli and market is across the street from Fresno High School on Echo Avenue, in the same block as Kuppa Joy coffee shop and Ampersand Ice Cream.
It’s in a remodeled convenience store that once catered to students seeking snacks.
Today it serves thick sandwiches and gourmet sides – and soon, a lot more – with the Vespa often parked inside (though truth be told, in the early stages of the business, Moran is still schlepping supplies to the business in his car).
But don’t be fooled by the quaint image or the small menu.
The man behind MOTO has some serious restaurant chops. He’s the general manager of Cracked Pepper Bistro, one of the best restaurants in Fresno on the north end of town.
He’s worked at Veni Vidi Vici, Palomino’s and 609 Grille. After four years in New York City, he returned to Fresno with thoughts of opening his own place.
He looked all over town, but ending up choosing a spot in the neighborhood where he lived less than a mile away.
The food
There are five sandwiches on the menu, ranging from $10 to $12, with a lot going on in each one.
One of the most popular, the “Goodfellas” has three types of meat: mortadella, dry salami and soppressata, along with fresh mozzarella and a pesto made with pistachios.
Another sandwich is the “Clubber Lang,” a turkey and bacon sandwich named after Mr. T’s character in “Rocky III.”
A vegan sandwich features sweet potato, artichokes and cucumbers.
Each one comes on either soft hoagie roll from Fresno-based Daily Bread bakery or sourdough from Tower District home-based baker Breadroom Bakery. Gluten-free bread is also available upon request.
There are also salads, and sides that are a little more involved than your average deli, like a pasta salad made with pesto and toasted almonds. There’s a street corn dish too, with chipotle mayo, cotija cheese and chili oil to give it a little eat.
Moran is in the process of applying for permits that would allow MOTO to serve alcohol. Wine and beer won’t be served when students are around, but possibly available for take away before 5 p.m. and then on-site consumption after 5 p.m.
What about the bodega?
Along with being a restaurant, Moto is also a deli. It sells cut-to-order cheeses and meats.
So what about the bodega part?
A bodega is essentially a corner neighborhood market in New York carrying essentials, Moran said.
“I’m home and I think, oh, I’m out of milk or I needed lemons and the closest thing is Whole Foods,” he said.
So he plans to carry some of those basics at MOTO – eventually.
Getting those products delivered has proved difficult as suppliers cope with a labor shortage making them reluctant to take on new customers, Moran said. That’s why you’ll see a lot of empty shelves at MOTO.
But once things are up and running, expect to find shelves lined with pickles, pasta, and lots of other dry goods.
As for the name, MOTO?
It’s a nod to the New York City cafe, Moto, founded by a pair of motorcycle-loving guys that was the subject of the documentary “Eat This New York.”
“MOTO meaning movement and forward progression,” Moran said.
Motorcycles, the scooter and the like, he said.
“I had this vision of riding my scooter from my house and parking it out front,” he said.
Details: Find MOTO on Instagram or Facebook. It’s at 1916 N. Echo Ave. Hours: For now, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesdays through Saturdays, though that will change. 559-412-2021.
This story was originally published August 26, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
