Yosemite climbers will need permits to sleep on rock walls. Here’s why and how it works
Rock climbers in Yosemite National Park planning an overnight trip on any climbing route will need an overnight wilderness climbing permit starting May 21, park officials announced Friday.
This is a new requirement in Yosemite, which is one of the most popular destinations in the world for rock climbing.
“This pilot program is being implemented to better understand how park visitors use Yosemite’s big walls,” park officials said, “and to help improve climbing wilderness ethics and reduce negative human impacts associated with overnight big wall use.”
Climbing permits will be free during the two-year pilot program, and there won’t be quotas or limits on the number available.
Day climbers not planning an overnight trip won’t need a permit.
The permits will become available at 8 a.m. May 14 via Yosemite Conservancy’s website, yosemite.org/climbingpermits.
‘Big change’ but expected, Yosemite Climbing Association says
Ken Yager, president of the Yosemite Climbing Association, sees the new permit system as “inevitable.”
“It’s a big change” but comes with some benefits for climbers, Yager said, such as having a better sense of how many other climbing parties might be ahead on a long climb. The system can also help notify climbers about some periodic route closures to protect nesting peregrine falcons, he said.
The outreach will include information about how to properly dispose of human waste on big wall climbs.
Yager estimates there’s between 4,000 and 5,000 climbing routes throughout Yosemite.
Yosemite climbers historically have largely managed themselves. As an example, the Park Service doesn’t replace climbing anchors on rock walls for climbing ropes, Yager said.
Yosemite officials said several other national parks – including Zion, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Rocky Mountain – already require permits for overnight climbs.
Yager said he doesn’t know what’s planned after the two-year pilot program, but doesn’t expect climbing permits to be limited anytime in the immediate future.
Interest in Yosemite rock climbing continues to increase, fueled by an ongoing succession of new climbing feats, including the Dawn Wall climb on El Capitan in 2015 by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, and “free solo” climbs without ropes by Alex Honnold.
Education about Yosemite climbing has also been increasing. A new rock climbing exhibit was installed last year in the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center, but the building remains closed to help prevent the spread of COVID-19. There’s an information station in front of the building.
The Yosemite Climbing Association also recently finished a new climbing museum at 5180 Highway 140, Mariposa, outside the park.
How to get a Yosemite climbing permit and how it works
Rock climbers on multi-day expeditions often sleep in what’s called a portaledge, a hanging tent system. Prior to this year, Yosemite climbers haven’t needed a permit to sleep on the side of a rock wall.
Overnight climbing permits can be requested starting May 14 for four to 15 days before a planned climb.
Yosemite climbing rangers will send a confirmation letter, if approved, within 48 hours of receiving a permit request (for up to four people). Permits must be picked up in Yosemite.
Climbing rangers also established several new climbing trailheads.
Those with climbing permits won’t need a separate day-use entry pass to get into Yosemite, which also starts May 21.
It was, and still is, illegal for climbers to camp at the base of any wall in Yosemite Valley. Camping at the base of Half Dome is allowed with a wilderness permit.
Yosemite campground reservations are available through recreation.gov.
More information about the new climbing regulations are available on Yosemite’s website.
