Fresno eatery braces for High-Speed Rail disruption. ‘Fighting to keep doors open’
AI-generated summary reviewed by our newsroom.
- Libelula began struggline after nearby parking lot closed earlier this year.
- Fresno Street closed Monday for high-speed rail construction expected to end mid 2027.
- Rail authority has offered signage and relocation help, but Libelula remains uncertain.
Chef Ian Cookson and his family have overcome multiple business struggles since their 2019 launch of Libelula, the popular downtown eatery near Fresno and Broadway streets.
They had to navigate the disruptions of the COVID pandemic a year after opening. Then, there was the damaged roof that caused rain to fall in its kitchen. Through it all, Libelula has cultivated a loyal base of customers who trek to downtown for its sriracha maple chicken sandwich and tater tots.
But this year will bring Libelula’s greatest test of resilience, yet.
The giant state-owned lot across Broadway Street that provided parking space to Libelula’s customers recently closed, resulting in a drop in sales. Now, the California High-Speed Rail Authority has closed Fresno Street to turn it into an underpass for the future bullet train — a construction project the agency expects to last more than one year.
The rail authority says it’s working to help Libelula, but Cookson fears the reduced parking and street closure could cause enough of a fall in traffic to put Libelula out of business. He said he was unprepared because he found out about the planned Fresno Street closure only a few weeks ago, when the rail authority told him it would hold an informational community meeting on the underpass project.
“We don’t know what we’re going to do,” Cookson told The Fresno Bee on Monday, the first day of the street’s closure.
Known for its artistic interior and creative menu options, Libelula has been named downtown’s best restaurant multiple times. After Cookson announced last week on social media that business was under threat from Fresno Street’s closure, he said customers poured in to support the eatery. He’s hoping the support will continue through the closure, which is expected to end in June 2027.
Though it is already an underpass for the Union Pacific Railroad tracks, the rail authority has to build another bridge over Fresno Street for the future high-speed trains. It’s also making several other improvements to Fresno Street that require its closure from F Street in Chinatown to Broadway Street in front of Libelula.
The Fresno Street project follows the completion of underpasses on Tulare Street and Cesar Chavez Boulevard (soon to be renamed Ventura Avenue) — both which took the agency multiple multiple years to finish.
“I’m not saying that’s going to happen now, but what if it does?” Cookson said.
Will construction force Libelula to relocate?
A statement from the rail authority says it and its construction contractor are working with Cookson and the owner of the Crest Threatre building, which the restaurant is located in. The agency has met with them in recent weeks to discuss help for the businesses.
“We are working with the City of Fresno on several mitigation efforts, including increasing business signage to guide the public through the road closures to the affected businesses while we are under construction, to providing the property and business owners with additional information and resources that may be utilized to assist with any negative impacts to their business during construction,” the rail authority said in a statement.
Cookson said the agency has also offered to help him relocate Libelula, but he is not convinced any of the offerings will actually keep him in business in the long run.
He said he will re-locate the restaurant if he has to, but noted the decision to open in its current downtown location was intentional.
“We wanted to be a part of this community,” he said of downtown.
‘Heartwarming’ support for Libelula
Libelula last week posted a social media message asking its customers to show up and support the restaurant through “one of the hardest moments we’ve ever had.”
“We are writing this with heavy hearts,” the post said, “because we are fighting to keep our doors open.”
The post called on community members to find new parking spaces along downtown streets and take the extra walk to eat at a local business.
Cookson said the decision to make the post was difficult, but the community’s response was strong and drove a sudden increase in sales.
“As heartbreaking as this is, it was really heartwarming to see everybody come here and show support,” he said.
Cookson, who previously was executive chef at The Vineyard Restaurant & Bar in Madera, said Libelula is a passion project that has involved his whole family.
He added that the restaurant will be extending its open hours to 3 p.m.
