They wanted a better life so they opened a Fresno restaurant. Now 11 siblings work there
When Kong Thao says his new restaurant is a family run business, he’s not kidding: Eleven siblings in his family work there.
Spicy Mayo Hibachi opened about a month ago at the northwest corner of Shaw and West avenues, next to Colorado Grill and in the space once occupied by The Broilers.
It serves grab-and-go Japanese food, though the family behind it is Hmong.
They grew up in poverty, the children of refugees, Thao said, and wanted a better life. So they decided to open a business.
First, he and a brother opened a food truck of the same name, a little over a year ago. It served quick-service teppanyaki-style food, often parking at Cornelia and Ashlan avenues.
The three brothers — Kong, Xai and Shue — who co-own the restaurant decided to graduate from the food truck to a brick-and-mortar restaurant. But not because of any grand growth plans or anything.
Because, as Kong Thao says: “Oh, honestly, it’s just too hot in Fresno.”
Even with an air conditioner inside the truck, running a grill on Fresno’s 110-plus degree days was “horrible.”
“I was like, ‘Nope, we can’t do this anymore,’” he said.
The food
Now they cook the same food in an air-conditioned space.
The menu is simple. Pick your protein — chicken, steak, shrimp or calamari.
It’s served with bacon fried rice made with vegetables or steamed white rice.
And the spicy mayo sauce that the restaurant was named after? It comes with every dish.
It’s not super spicy, but it does have a kick. You can sub in the not-spicy-at-all teriyaki sauce if you want. Or, if you’re brave, get the atomic sauce that will make your tongue tingle at the first bite.
What’s in it the sauce?
“Can’t tell you,” Thao said. It’s a secret recipe.
There’s a secret menu too, or at least a secret item. The trio is a dish that comes with three meats — steak, chicken and shrimp — for $20.
Most items, including the single and two-meat combos, range from $12 to $18. Thai tea and calamari have been added to the menu since Spicy Mayo opened.
The family
The 12 kids are the children of refugees. Their parents lived in Laos and Thailand before coming to the United States.
It’s a common story in Fresno’s Hmong population. Many were forced to flee their homeland and live in refugee camps after helping the U.S. during the Vietnam War.
Growing up in Fresno, Thao said the family lived in Section 8 housing and moved a lot.
When he thinks about his future kids, he doesn’t want them to have to deal with money issues.
“I don’t (want to) have to worry about oh, they can’t go on this field trip,” he said. “What’s going to be the best way to get out of this situation?” he asked.
His solution? Open a business.
He and brother Xai had been working as teppanyaki chefs for seven or eight years at the time, flipping food in the air and putting on the whole show.
A 2013 Clovis West graduate, Thao decided to go out on his own, along with Xai. They opened the truck and then the restaurant.
Today, 11 of the 12 siblings — who range from ages 19 to 42 — work at the restaurant. The one who doesn’t has her own career.
And yes, Thao realizes the irony of making Japanese food when he’s not Japanese, but that’s what he knows, he said.
“I probably know how to cook Japanese food better than I know Hmong food,” he said.
Details: Spicy Mayo Hibachi is at 2088 W. Shaw Ave. Hours: 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Closed Sundays. 559-803-8699.
This story was originally published May 18, 2023 at 11:12 AM.
