Food & Drink

A toast to toast: It’s a feast for the eyes and the belly


Raizana Tea Co. serves toast with jasmine, rose and hibiscus, on the left, chocolate and hazelnut with sea salt, middle, and cream cheese, orange peel and blue agave.
Raizana Tea Co. serves toast with jasmine, rose and hibiscus, on the left, chocolate and hazelnut with sea salt, middle, and cream cheese, orange peel and blue agave. ezamora@fresnobee.com

To many, toast is just a breakfast accessory. A little butter, maybe a nut spread and that’s it. But to fans of this food craze, gourmet toast is the greatest thing since, well, sliced bread.

Restaurants from Los Angeles to San Francisco, where the toast trend began, are creating mini-masterpieces out of toast – thick slices of crusty bread adorned with everything from lavendar-flavored ricotta cheese to chipotle eggplant.

And while gourmet toast has already created critics – mostly those who scoff at the price – chefs say toast is a good thing. It’s portable, satisfying and can be a feast for your eyes and your belly.

Raizana Tea Co. recently joined the gourmet toast bandwagon. The popular downtown tea house at 2015 Toulumne St. offers toast in three flavors. Co-owner Sol Orozco, a trained pastry chef, says her motivation was to offer something that was easy to prepare and would go well with her specially blended teas.

Her toast sells for $3.25 and starts with thick pieces of rustic bread from local bakery La Boulangerie. The toast is served three different ways. You can get toast with cream cheese, sprinkled with lavender/orange spices and a drizzle of agave nectar. Nutella lovers can try toast with the hazelnut spread, olive oil and a sprinkling of pink Himalayan salt. Then there is toast with plain butter and flavored with orange, lavender, cinnamon and coconut chai.

“When I chose the flavors for the toast, I wanted something that people would be able to smell before they bite into it,” Orozco said. “I want this to be an experience.”

Few know the satiating experience of toast better than Jill Donenfeld, the New York-based private chef and author of “Better on Toast.”

Donenfeld says the beauty of gourmet toast is that it is relatively simple to create, it can taste really good and it provides maximum creativity for the person assembling it.

“There is also something really primal about that combination of chewy, crispy bread that is warm and soft on the inside,” she says.

Early in her career when she was working as a waitress, Donenfeld used to curb her hunger by making toast on a panini press and coating it with herb butter.

“It was totally heaven,” she says.

Her cookbook has 70 toast recipes that can be used for breakfast, lunch, dinner, appetizer or snack. And she predicts people’s love affair with toast isn’t ending anytime soon.

“This is not like a sandwich where everything is hidden,” Donenfeld says. “You eat with your eyes and toast is something that can be beautifully constructed and overall satisfying.”

At home, you can create endless possibilities with toast, including some very healthy options. Donenfeld says that while any bread will do, she recommends checking out your local bakery.

Linda Brandt, manager of the Ivanhoe-based Family Farm Fresh CSA, says the Valley offers a bounty of fresh options for dressing up your toast. You can spread goat cheese and top it with thinly sliced cantaloupe and a drizzle of honey or agave nectar. Or, try your favorite nut butter, sliced plums and toasted almonds.

With tomatoes in season, you can do heirloom tomato and avocado toast. Brush your bread with olive oil prior to toasting, then add a layer of thin slices of avocado, sliced heirloom tomatoes, chopped fresh basil, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

And if you are trying to eat healthier, use a multigrain bread, dried fruit, berries and nuts, says Melissa Ortiz, a registered dietician at Kaiser Permanente Fresno. Low-fat yogurt, hummus and fresh herbs are also healthy toppings.

“And if you are using an ingredient that is high in fat, just go easy and spread it thinly on your toast,” Ortiz says. “It will still taste really good.”

Robert Rodriguez: 559-441-6327, @FresnoBeeBob

Cauliflower melts

By Jill Donenfeld

1/4 cup olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Medium head of cauliflower, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slabs, possibly halved to make a total of 8 slabs

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup white wine (optional)

1/4 cup shelled pistachios

8 1/2-inch thick slices sourdough bread

4 ounces Comte or Manchego cheese, cut into 8 slices

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine the oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Add the cauliflower slabs and toss to coat.

Arrange the cauliflower on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes, flip the slabs, and bake another 10 to 20 minutes, until softened and roasted. Set aside to cool but keep the oven on.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, soak the raisins in wine or water for 10 minutes. Drain.

In a small pan over medium-high heat, toast the pistachios, dry or with a little oil. Let cool on a paper towel, then chop coarsely.

Lay the bread on the baking sheet and arrange the cauliflower on the bread, cutting it to fit as needed. Sprinkle with pistachios and raisins and top with the cheese.

Bake until the cheese melts, 7 to 10 minutes. Top the toasts with chopped parsley and serve immediately.

Makes 8 toasts.

Hot miso crab

By Jill Donenfeld

1/2 cup silken tofu

3 tablespoons white miso

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (or malt vinegar if that’s lying around)

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 8-ounce can jumbo lump crab

1/4 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

Olive oil

1 loaf miche bread or baguette, cut into 15 to 20 1/2-inch-thick slices

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

With an immersion blender or a food processor, puree the tofu, miso, lemon juice, vinegar, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, and pepper until smooth.

Transfer to a small bowl and fold in the crab, sour cream, and chives. Pour 1/4 inch of oil into a shallow dish and soak the bread in the oil, coating both sides.

Evenly heap 2 to 3 tablespoons of the crab mixture onto each slice of bread and lay the slices on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until a little browned. Serve hot.

Makes 15-20 appetizer-size toasts

Zingy white beans and tomatoes

By Jill Donenfeld

5 tablespoons olive oil

4 fresh rosemary sprigs

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 15-ounce can white beans, rinsed and drained

Pinch of salt

1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved, or

1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

1 lemon, halved

4 ½-inch thick slices rustic Italian bread, Parmesan pan-toasted (see directions), halved or cut in thirds to make bite- size pieces

Parmesan pan toasting

Spread a very thin layer of butter evenly on both sides of a bread slice. Smash freshly grated Parmesan into one side of the toast. Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat. When pan is hot, place the bread in the pan, cheese side down and toast until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle the top with Parmesan, smashing it in so it sticks and flip the bread. Toast another 1 to 2 minutes, or until the cheese on the bottom is melted and crisp, but not burned.

In a medium saucepan over low heat, heat the oil and the rosemary sprigs until the rosemary has fried up but not burned, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the sprigs and reserve them.

Set aside 2 tablespoons of the rosemary oil (just scoop it out with a spoon and put it in a little cup). Add the garlic and white beans, turn up the heat, and sauté for 4 to 6 minutes, until the garlic is softened. Add the salt.

Add the tomatoes and cook them down, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the vinegar and cook another 2 minutes, until the mixture comes together.

Squeeze the lemon onto the toasts and top with roughly 2 tablespoons bean- tomato mix. Drizzle uniformly with the reserved rosemary oil and top with the fried rosemary.

Makes 8-12 appetizer-size toasts

This story was originally published September 1, 2015 at 7:00 AM with the headline "A toast to toast: It’s a feast for the eyes and the belly."

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