Food & Drink

A Four-Ingredient Cookie That's Tender and Crunchy

(A Good Appetite)

Calling for just four ingredients -- butter, sugar, flour and salt -- shortbread is one of the simplest confections you can bake. And it’s precisely this minimalism that makes it so singular.

There’s no egg, no liquid, no chocolate, no spice. There’s not even leavening to mitigate its rigorous plainness. Yet good shortbread always manages to charm, secure in the quiet confidence of really excellent butter.

Recipes for shortbread have been around since the Middle Ages. According to lexicographer John Ayto, the term “shortbread” is linked to shortcake, short crust pastry and shortening. In baking, “short” means a dough so richly saturated with fat that the gluten strands never get a chance to link up and toughen. The crumb stays tender and a bit sandy, which gives it a texture distinct from other cookies and cakes.

Although shortbread’s ingredients are few, its forms are many. There are slender fingers, petite coins, wedge-shaped petticoat tails said to have been a favorite of Mary Queen of Scots. But it’s these hearty highlanders that I keep coming back to. Thick rounds rolled in Demerara sugar so that their edges glitter and crunch, they were popularized by Walker’s Shortbread in Aberlour, Scotland, which has been making them since 1898. This recipe is a riff on theirs.

Its ratio hews closely to that of classic shortbread and is easy to keep in your head: one part sugar, two parts butter, three parts flour (plus a pinch of salt). Butter is the most important part, the veritable soul of good shortbread. Use the best high-fat butter you can find, preferably the cultured kind with a faint fresh tang that recalls places with green pastures and a lot of sheep.

And don’t skimp on the Demerara sugar at the edges. Rolling the shaped log of dough through a copious mound before slicing ensures that every cookie gets an even coating of crystals that caramelize in the oven.

Finally, be sure to bake these in a low oven for a long time. Pull the pan when the shortbread is pale gold at the edges, but not brown all over. It’s the difference between a texture that melts on the tongue versus shattering like a cracker.

Then try your best to let the rounds cool completely before eating one. You might fail at this, and that’s fine. Warm shortbread, it turns out, is also very good -- especially with a small neat whisky served alongside.

--

Highlander Shortbreads

These thick and buttery shortbread rounds are a riff on the ones sold by Walker’s Shortbread in Scotland. The main point of difference between Highlander shortbread and other varieties is the sparkly Demerara sugar that coats the edges, adding a distinctive sweet crunch. Using a small percentage of rice flour or cornstarch in the dough gives these an especially crumbly-soft texture while using all wheat flour makes them slightly snappier. Use what you have, relish the results.

By Melissa Clark

Total time: 2 hours

Yield: About 2 dozen cookies

Ingredients:

1 cup/225 grams unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup to 2/3 cup/100 to 132 grams granulated sugar

3/4 teaspoon fine sea or table salt

2 cups/250 grams all-purpose flour

1/4 cup/36 grams white rice flour or cornstarch (or use more all-purpose flour)

Demerara sugar, as needed

Preparation:

1. Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle or electric beaters, cream the butter, sugar and salt until smooth, 1 to 3 minutes (colder butter will take longer). Do not overbeat; you want the ingredients blended without incorporating a lot of air into the mixture. You can also use a wooden spoon and elbow grease to do this.

2. Add the flours and beat until the dough just comes together in large clumps, 30 seconds to 1 minute more.

3. Form the dough into 2 fat logs about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, and wrap in parchment or plastic wrap. Chill until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.

4. Heat the oven to 325 degrees and line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

5. Put a couple of tablespoons of Demerara sugar into a small rimmed pan, unwrap the dough, and roll the logs in the sugar, adding more sugar as needed so they are well coated. Slice logs about 3/8-inch thick and arrange on parchment-lined cookie sheets. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

6. The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for at least a week.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

Highlander shortbreads. Calling for just four ingredients -- butter, sugar, flour and salt -- shortbread is one of the simplest confections you can bake. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Andrew Bui/The New York Times)
Highlander shortbreads. Calling for just four ingredients -- butter, sugar, flour and salt -- shortbread is one of the simplest confections you can bake. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Andrew Bui/The New York Times) ANDREW BUI NYT
Highlander shortbreads. Flour, salt, butter, sugar: That's all you need for a lovely afternoon snack. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Andrew Bui/The New York Times)
Highlander shortbreads. Flour, salt, butter, sugar: That's all you need for a lovely afternoon snack. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Andrew Bui/The New York Times) ANDREW BUI The New York Times

Copyright 2026 The New York Times Company

This story was originally published April 28, 2026 at 8:40 AM.

Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER