Eileen Crane, founding winemaker of Domaine Carneros and sparkling wine pioneer, dies at 77

Eileen Crane, one of California's most revered and influential figures in sparkling wine, died May 29. Her cause of death was not disclosed. She was 77.

Over her four-decade career, Crane helped define California as a world-class sparkling wine producer, first at Gloria Ferrer and later at Domaine Carneros, where she served as founding winemaker and chief executive for 33 years.

" Eileen was the epitome of a woman who was simultaneously powerful and elegant - and gave other women the confidence it was possible to get to the top," said Karen MacNeil, the award-winning wine author who knew Crane for 40 years. "Her wines were just like her: powerful because they proved how extraordinary and distinctive California sparkling wines could be before they had global recognition."

Vitalie Taittinger, president of Champagne Taittinger, the French co-founder of Domaine Carneros, reflected on Crane's long career at the winery.

"At a time when few women held leadership positions in the wine world, Eileen Crane opened a path for future generations," he said in a statement. "She forged her own way with determination, conviction and an unwavering commitment to excellence. Those who knew her will remember her high standards, clarity of vision and the respect she inspired."

A sparkling wine pioneer

Growing up in New Jersey as the oldest of four children, Crane was raised in an adventurous, broad-minded family that encouraged her to explore life with curiosity and an open mind.

"We were incredibly fortunate to grow up in our family," said her brother, Nicholas Crane. "One of Eileen's favorite childhood memories was sitting around the family table tasting wines with our parents. That simple family tradition became a defining part of her life's work."

While studying abroad in Paris, Crane fell in love with French culture, embracing its appreciation for beauty, wine, food, art and bringing people together.

"That influence became a part of who she was and stayed with her for the rest of her life," her brother said. "She loved nothing more than inviting people into her home, preparing a beautiful meal, opening wine and sharing an evening of conversation and laughter."

Crane earned a master's degree in nutrition from the University of Connecticut, where she developed a strong foundation in chemistry. The experience sparked her interest in the science of wine and led her to study enology and viticulture at the University of California, Davis.

After graduating, she joined Domaine Chandon in Yountville, rising from tour guide to assistant winemaker.

In 1983, the Ferrer family, owners of Spain's Freixenet cava house, hired Crane to establish Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards in Sonoma from the ground up.

Over the next four years, she served as vice president and sparkling winemaker, overseeing construction of the winery and shaping the brand's house style - an uncommon achievement for a winemaker in her early 30s.

"In the mid-'80s, there was this huge shift in California sparkling wine, which suddenly got really good," MacNeil said. " Eileen believed it was because she and other winemakers were no longer using Champagne as their model. California sparkling had taken on its own personality, and she was one of the architects of that."

Bridging two traditions

In 1987, Crane was recruited by the Taittinger and Kopf families to establish and lead Domaine Carneros, a new sparkling wine estate on the Napa side of the Carneros appellation.

"We knew such an undertaking required a singular individual capable of bringing together two cultures and two traditions. Eileen was that person," Vitalie Taittinger said. "From the beginning, she understood the ambition was not to reproduce Champagne in California, but to reveal the unique expression of Napa Valley. Under her leadership, Domaine Carneros became deeply rooted in its own terroir and identity."

Over the next four decades, Crane served as both winemaker and chief executive at Domaine Carneros, championing sustainability initiatives, launching one of California's first wine clubs and creating Le Rêve, the acclaimed blanc de blancs she compared to "Audrey Hepburn in a little black dress."

Remi Cohen, who succeeded Crane as chief executive in 2020, remained close to her predecessor, often spending time with Crane after her retirement.

"The first time I met Eileen, I was immediately impressed by her grace and candor," said Cohen, who was introduced to Crane in 2001. "While she was a tough, stoic business person, she led her team with warmth, empathy, respect and thoughtfulness. She was a mentor and inspiration to so many people."

Kimberly Charles, president of Charles Communications, first met Crane at age 24 while working for Kobrand, the New York beverage importer and co-owner of Domaine Carneros.

"At the time, she was building Domaine Carneros, and I remember how extremely professional and patient she was," Charles said. "She was an incredible mentor who taught me to never accept ‘no' as an answer - to have it be the start of a conversation. Knowing her for four decades was a privilege of my life."

While many will remember Crane for her professional accomplishments, her siblings said it was the way she lived her life that left the deepest impression.

"Eileen was thoughtful, loving and deeply caring, and she remained that way throughout her life," her brother Nicholas said. "She had the remarkable ability to bring people together. We will miss her deeply."

Crane is survived by her husband, Gregory Groth.

Sarah Doyle is the wine and beverage reporter at The Press Democrat. Send her story tips at sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.

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