This Volcano Trail Race Is the Wildest Way to See Iceland
I'm descending out of a cloud of fog when the view hits me: Terracotta mountains dotted with vibrant mossy patches and steamy geothermal vents. I slow down to take it in, watching ant-sized trail runners make their way through the valley below. There's a small line forming where the path takes a sharp drop, and I realize this race course involves backing down a steep, crumbly section with a fixed rope. That all-too-rare sense of giddy awe washes over me.
I'm racing the Kerlingarfjöll Ultra in Iceland, which takes competitors through some of the most stunning and unique terrain in the country. The trails weave through the Kerlingarfjöll mountains, a volcanic range in the rugged Highlands, far from the conveniences of Ring Road. Most tourists don't venture out here-it requires a long drive with a 4x4 vehicle-but if you make the trek, you'll be rewarded with Iceland's version of Yellowstone: burbling, sulfuric, technicolor pools; steep climbs through scree and snow; epic glaciers; sheep spotting; and hot springs.
What It's Like to Run the Kerlingarfjöll Ultra
You can choose between one of three race distances-12km, 22km, and 60km-each with a healthy amount of vertical gain (500m, 1,120m, and 2,100m, respectively). I opted for the 22km (roughly a half marathon), and the steep ascents and uneven trail kicked my ass in the best way. Much of the race isn't on defined singletrack; you're navigating through rock fields and mounds of arctic moss. In some sections-particularly the descent into Hveradalir Geothermal Area-your shoes will get so caked with gloopy clay that you add a few extra pounds. Don't worry-you'll shed them in the stream crossings. It's all part of the experience.
Related: The Adventurer's Guide to Southern Iceland
The 22km and 60km courses take you past Kerling, an 82-foot-tall, troll-like rock formation that gave the mountains their name. The 12km route features one aid station, the 22km, two, and the 60km, five. Some stations have only water and electrolytes/liquid carbs, others offer bananas, pretzels, and chocolate. For the most part, you'll need to carry what you need with you, including extra layers, since the weather in the Icelandic mountains is notoriously unpredictable. The race takes place on July 25, when temps are in the high 40s to low 50s (Fahrenheit). This time of year, it never gets fully dark, so start times are later. The 12km begins at 1 p.m. (with a four-hour cutoff), the 22km starts at 10 a.m. (with a six-hour cutoff), and the 60km runners toe the line at 8 a.m. (and have a 12-hour cutoff). It's a great option for anyone who hates a 4 a.m. wake-up on race day.
The Kerlingarfjöll Ultra had its first run in 2024, and since then, participation numbers have been in the high 100s to low 200s. It's a small race that spreads out in the second half, but in the 22km, I never felt like I was completely alone on the course. The atmosphere is adventurous but laid back. While there are a handful of spectators, don't expect cheering crowds; you'll mostly be racing in silence. When I ran the inaugural ultra in 2024, the president of Iceland at the time, Guðni Thorlacius Jóhannesson, spectated with his family (and no security), joining runners in the hot springs afterwards. It was a perfect example of the unpretentious attitude of Icelanders, extending all the way to the top.
Where to Stay in Kerlingarfjöll
The Kerlingarfjöll Ultra is hosted by Highland Base, a modern Scandi property that serves as the starting point of the race and acts as a portal to the region's ample outdoor excursions. Outside of the main lodge, which has 46 hotel rooms, Highland Base offers camping, seven A-frame hut rentals, and six private luxury cabins. Guests can enjoy a daily breakfast (which is complimentary) and dinner buffet, as well as a daily afternoon waffle (or vöfflur) buffet, and lunch to order. Returning to the lodge after exploring the chilly, wet backcountry and being met with a crispy, sweet vöfflur and hot cocoa was one of the highlights of my trip. I ate one every day.
Inside the luxury cabins, wall-to-wall windows frame the lush Ásgarður valley and Ásgarðsá river. Sheep regularly graze right outside, making the vista even more magical. The clean, minimalist design paired with warm woods and cozy, plush linens-like a classic European split duvet-never distract from the real star: the view. And excellent automatic blackout shades help you sleep despite the midnight sun.
Perhaps the best part of Highland Base is its thermal baths. These natural hot springs have been built out into three steamy pools, along with a cold plunge and sauna, all of which overlook the valley and the charming A-frames across the river.
Highland Base used to be a ski school in the 1960s, where kids from around the country would come to learn how to downhill ski in the summers. It closed in 2000, after the snowfields had receded so much that skiing in the warm season wasn't possible. The developers behind the Blue Lagoon turned it into the adventure hub it is today.
What to Do in Kerlingarfjöll
Highland Base offers a variety of guided tours, like snowmobiling, ski touring, snowshoeing, and aurora borealis viewing in the winter and ATV outings and hiking in the summer. The day before the ultra, I opted for an easy e-mountain bike ride around the area, led by my fantastic guide Ruben Perez. We stopped at Innri-Ásgarðsá, a section of the impossibly blue river that carves a horseshoe through the surrounding cliffs, before making our way to the Hveradalir Geothermal Area. Here, we dropped our bikes, hiking down the stairs carved into the orange rhyolite mountains, plumes of steam rising from the valley below. At the bottom, we were met with bubbling streams and pools in every shade of blue and gray. Well-worn trails, featuring bridges and raised walking paths, allow you to check out the geothermal activity from close range. I ended the ride with mud splattered on my face, excited about going even farther into the mountains during my race the next day.
The day after the ultra, I met up with Perez again for a hike that didn't overlap with the 22km race course. We aimed to summit Snækollur, the tallest mountain in the area at 1,488m. Even in the warmer months, you have to ascend and cross a glacier before reaching the final scree-covered climb, so Perez outfitted me with crampons and a harness, and tied us together with a rope. The hike only covers 5km and about 600m of gain, but it still felt like a proper adventure.
On a clear day, you can see the north and south coast of Iceland from the top. We had spectacular views of the valley below-and glaciers in the distance-from about halfway up, but at the summit, we were completely shrouded in mist. The wind roared so fiercely that we couldn't hear each other's laughter at the absurdity of the conditions. We basked in the accomplishment for a few minutes before quickly descending. It's not unusual for fog to roll in and sit on top of these mountains, so it felt appropriate that one of my outings looked like this.
The thermal baths at Highland Base are obviously a must after hiking, but there's another natural hot spring worth visiting, too. From the lodge, follow a small trail along the Ásgarðsá River toward the geothermal area for 1.5km and you'll find a "secret," unnamed pool to soak in, sans tourists.
How to Get to Kerlingarfjöll
The drive from Keflavik to Highland Base takes roughly four hours, and you'll need a 4x4 vehicle to traverse the unpaved roads. Even though you can drive yourself in the summer, I made the journey with a driver from Elite Chauffeur Service and a beefed up Land Rover Defender HSE X-Dynamic (in the winter, driving yourself isn't an option; you'll need to book a transfer expedition). I highly recommend extending the drive to make some stops along the Golden Circle, a sight-seeing route that goes over the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates collide. We pulled over to see Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in the country, in Þingvellir National Park, where you can hike though Almannagjá Gorge and scuba dive to the Silfra Fissure between the tectonic plates.
We also stopped to watch a fountain of boiling water erupt from the geyser Strokkur (she's no Old Faithful, but still interesting). Before we turned off the pavement to make our way to Kerlingarfjöll, we walked around Gulfoss, one of many enormous and stunning waterfalls in the country, and the surrounding fields of purple lupine.
Who Should Visit Kerlingarfjöll
Ring Road is incredibly popular for a reason (and after my trip to Kerlingarfjöll, I rented a van from KuKu Campers and explored it myself), and the touristy stops are absolutely worth seeing (more on those below). But if you want to experience part of Iceland that still feels untouched and wild, the Highlands are a must. The area is vast, which makes a trail race an excellent way to cover a lot of ground quickly, and really get a feel for the elements. Even if you can't participate in the ultra, Kerlingarfjöll is a haven for outdoor adventure. Ski tourers, hikers, and cyclists shouldn't miss it, and anyone who is fascinated by geothermal activity, or really appreciates a good hot spring, won't regret making the journey to Kerlingarfjöll.
Must-See Sights in Iceland
I didn't have time to cover all of Ring Road during my stay, so I only completed the bottom half of the circle over four days. Copy my itinerary to make the most out of a short trip:
Day 1: Pick up a camper van at KuKu Campers. My van came equipped with a sleeping platform and pad, curtains, a heater, and a camp cooking kit, and I rented a sleeping bag, pillow, and cooler. Drive to Seljalandsfoss, where you can walk behind the giant waterfall. Make the short walk to Gljúfrabúi, a nearby waterfall inside a canyon. Camp at Skógafoss. There's no dispersed or wild camping in Iceland; you have to stay at campgrounds. They're located near main attractions and only cost about $15 a night. Many campgrounds also have restaurants on site. Most places don't take reservations, but they're basically big parking lots with plenty of space, and you can roll up any time and pay via a QR code. Showers are available for an extra fee, too.
Day 2: Hike the trails behind Skógafoss. Drive to the cliffs at Dyrhólaey, where you can see puffins in the summer, when most of the species migrates to Iceland to mate. Drive to the black sand beach at Reynisfjara. Get lunch in Vík. Drive to Jökulsárlón, a mesmerizing glacial lagoon filled with icebergs, where you can book a kayak or Zodiac tour. Check out Diamond Beach across the road, where huge blocks of ice wash up along the coast. Drive to Vestrahorn to camp.
Day 3: Walk around Stokksnes, a stunning black sand beach with epic mountains rising out of the ocean. If you're lucky, you'll see sheep and seals. Get lunch in Höfn. Drive to Svínafellsjökull, a massive glacier only a short drive off of Ring Road. Get dinner in Vík. Drive to Skógafoss to camp.
Day 4: Drive to Reykjavík and explore the town. Drive to Grindavík and check into The Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland to end your trip with an indulgent, relaxing, recovery-focused stay. The Retreat gives you access to the public-facing Blue Lagoon, beloved for its soothing, mineral-rich waters and cleansing clay masks, as well as a private, phone-free section reserved only for guests. Enjoy one of the many luxury spa treatments, like the Blue Lagoon Ritual, which involves a lava salt scrub, silica mud mask, microalgae mask, and luxurious body oil. Don't miss a dinner at The Retreat's Michelin-starred Moss Restaurant, which offers delicate and delicious seafood with stunning nature-inspired presentation, and a rare wine selection. At the end of the day, you can collapse in your plush bed with the unbelievably turquoise waters of the lagoon right outside your room's floor-to-ceiling windows.
This story was originally published by Men's Journal on Jun 18, 2026, where it first appeared in the Travel section. Add Men's Journal as a Preferred Source by clicking here.
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This story was originally published June 18, 2026 at 9:31 AM.