Do red light therapy masks actually work? Here's what dermatologists say

If you follow skin care or wellness trends, you've probably seen countless ads and posts about at-home red light therapy masks that claim to target a host of skin care woes, from acne to wrinkles and pigmentation.

There is some science behind the hype. Years before it became a skin care trend, red light therapy was cleared by the FDA in 2007 to increase hair growth. Studies suggest it can have modest benefits for inflammation, wound healing, acne and sun damage.

But some dermatologists say that while the technology is promising, questions remain about how useful the products really are, especially compared with more well-studied treatments

"When it comes to cosmetic dermatology, the best evidence we have supports subtle, gradual cumulative improvement in things like texture, hydration and fine lines but certainly not dramatic transformations," said Dr. Sungat Grewal, a dermatologic surgeon at UCSF and co-director of laser surgery and cosmetic dermatology.

Here's what research shows about the effectiveness of red light therapy masks as a skin care treatment.

How does it work?

Red light masks harness a concept known as photobiomodulation, or PBM - the use of light to stimulate biological effects. The concept is not new, but it wasn't recognized as a "Medical Subject Heading" term by the National Library of Medicine until 2015. That designation made it a formal scientific term used to index and search for published research on the topic.

Different wavelengths of light have different effects. Ultraviolet light can damage cells, for instance, while blue light targets bacteria (the FDA cleared blue light therapy devices to treat acne in the early 2000s).

Red light therapy helps hair growth by prolonging the growth phase and increasing the circumference of follicles for more and thicker hair, said Dr. Zakia Rahman, a clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford Medical School and a faculty member at the Stanford Center on Longevity.

More recently, red light masks have become popular in the skin care realm for their purported ability to stimulate collagen production and improve the appearance of fine lines.

"It stimulates more collagen and stops the breakdown of existing collagen that happens as a result of aging," Rahman said.

The technology is well suited to at-home use because you have to keep doing it to see results, Rahman said, likening it to the way a physical therapist gives you exercises to do at home.

"Biologically, it lends itself well to that because you want to keep stimulating the biology on a regular basis," she said.

What to consider if you're thinking about trying it

While red light therapy can have some cosmetic benefits, dermatologists say other in-office treatments and medications have more evidence supporting their effectiveness - such as tretinoin and prescription medications for acne; Botox, tretinoin and laser resurfacing procedures for wrinkles; and topical lightening agents and lasers for pigmentation, Grewal said.

"Not every treatment that works works equally well," she said. "The real question is whether a subtle benefit is worth the time, cost and effort when more effective options are available."

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of masks and wands on the market - and the studies done on red light therapy have used different wavelengths, devices, doses and treatment schedules. That makes it hard to determine what effects any specific mask will have, and what dosage or frequency may reap a meaningful benefit.

"It's a promising adjunctive technology but we're still defining its true clinical role," Grewal said. "I'd describe the field as cautious optimism. We're still early in defining the ideal parameters, design, patient selection and the true magnitude of clinical benefit."

What shoppers should look for

Red light therapy masks and devices can range from budget models under $100 to premium options costing $500 or more.

The FDA considers red light masks medical devices that are low to moderate risk. They do not need FDA approval the way higher-risk medical devices do.

If you're shopping for a red light mask, look for one that's labeled FDA-cleared. That doesn't necessarily mean it's been rigorously tested for safety and efficacy, but rather that it's similar to another legally marketed device.

"If someone enjoys using red light masks, doesn't mind the cost, and understands the results may be subtle, I don't have a strong objection," Grewal said. "But if a patient asks me for the most effective way to treat acne or wrinkles either at home or in office, red light therapy would not be at the top of my list."

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This story was originally published May 31, 2026 at 10:42 AM.