Aldo Escribens, a banker in his native Peru, moved to the United States and found his niche in a restaurant kitchen. He now brings the cuisine of his South American birthplace to Fresno.
Escribens and his wife, Ana, own and operate Limón, a restaurant with two locations: 9455 Fort Washington Road at Friant Road and 7089 N. Marks Ave. at Herndon Avenue.
Limón means “lime” in Spanish, and the citrus fruit figures prominently in one of the restaurant’s signature items — ceviche. It’s a fish dish, and Escribens — the chef — uses chunks of red snapper marinated in lime juice. The citric acid from the juice affects the fish the same way that heating would, giving it the texture of cooked fish.
The couple serve their ceviche with cancha (roasted corn) and choclo (a big kernel corn similar to hominy).
Lime is also a key ingredient in Limón’s signature cocktail, the Pisco Sour. It’s Peruvian brandy mixed with egg white, sugar and lime juice.
Limón serves another traditional Peruvian entree — Lomo Saltados, which is top sirloin sauteed with onions, soy sauce and tomatoes. It comes with rice and French fries because rice and potatoes are staples in Peru.
Customer reaction has been positive. “People are really happy that we are bringing a new concept to Fresno,” Ana Escribens says. “We are happy to be in Fresno. It’s a good place to be.”
The restaurant’s website is limonfresno.com.