Alone, but not lonely, in the wilderness

Hiking Desolation Wilderness in fall avoids crowds, not beauty.

By Carlos Alcala / The Sacramento Bee

10/07/09 21:59:22

The Desolation Wilderness, despite its name, is not deserted.

It is one of the country's most heavily used wilderness areas, with 120,000 permitted visitors annually, almost all in summer.

Perched atop the Sierra Nevada just southwest of Lake Tahoe, its spectacular, glacier-carved scenery and proximity to cities make it a backpacker's mecca -- not only for Sacramento-area residents, but for outdoors lovers among the Bay Area's nearly 7 million people.

"It's an island of naturalness surrounded by civilization," said U.S. Forest Service Ranger Don Lane.

On summer weekends, popular trails become streaming freeways of hikers -- albeit one-lane freeways where you may need to stand aside to let pack-laden hikers pass.

There is, I discovered recently, a way to avoid the crowds -- the crowds of people and the crowds of mosquitoes that sometimes plague summer campers.

The solution: Don't go in summer.

Just after the fall equinox, I made a four-day, three-night solo trek into the wilderness, starting on a weekday.

It coincided almost exactly with Desolation's 40th anniversary as a designated wilderness.

I saw few people until midafternoon on the first day -- and saw dozens streaming in on the weekend when I left -- but I managed to go nearly 72 hours in between without meeting another human on the trail or in camp.

It was glorious. I had every lake, every vista, every campsite to myself. I was alone, but not lonely.

Because cold weather hadn't hit, I also was warm enough to sleep outside my tent every night.

Here are a few things to think about when you go to the Desolation backcountry late -- after Labor Day and into early October.

Is it a safe time to go?

The later it gets in October, the more changeable the weather.

It snowed there Saturday, although the white stuff quickly melted away.

Jeffrey P. Schaffer, author of "The Tahoe Sierra," a classic guide now out of print, suggests hikers should stick to trails out of Meeks Bay and Fallen Leaf Lake, where -- in case of snow -- they can get out quickly and the roads to parking will be cleared.

Check the forecast, and if there are any doubts about the weather or your ability to handle it, don't go. The mountains will still be there next year.

Water

Backpackers can go through a lot of water, especially when it's warm, but there's less water to be had in late season.

I went with a Camelback bladder in my pack, but it was a small one, and I drained it by early afternoon the first day.

I picked up some water at Clyde Lake, about 9 miles in, figuring I would be camping by the Rubicon River that night and could get more.

But all I found there were patches of stagnant water.

I rationed the Clyde water so I would have enough for breakfast. I hiked up to Lois Lake for more the next day.

Lakes in Desolation Wilderness will have water -- enough for some lovely swimming -- all year, and you rarely have to go more than a couple of miles from one to the next.

Lesson: Be sure you have enough containers and a means of water purification -- and plan to camp by water.

Those are the scenic spots, anyway.

Weather preparation

My trip was hot during the days and almost balmy at night, but I made sure I was prepared for bad weather.

I've been snowed on as early as late August in California's mountains, so I brought waterproof boots, a good tent, an insulated vest, jacket, long underwear, gloves and a poncho.

REI's online or store checklists are a good starting point for deciding what to take.

Extra food is a weather precaution, too.

Even rain may keep you in one place longer than you expect, and unable to get out as soon as you planned.

You don't want your body to run out of fuel before you get back to your car.

Map and compass

Desolation has entrances from Wright's Lake, Echo Lake, Fallen Leaf Lake and near Lake Tahoe.

The trails are pretty clear if you don't go farther than a day hike, but some trails farther in are more sketchy.

I managed to lose the track a few times on my third day, on a trail that my map indicated as unmaintained.

A compass and the ability to read the terrain and topographical map kept me from worrying.

I kept myself headed in the right direction until I came upon a clear trail.

Plotting a route with a map and GPS isn't a bad idea, either.

Plants

One thing you won't get in late season is a profusion of wildflowers.

I saw a bit of Indian paintbrush, mountain aster, lupine and a few others, but mostly could see where flowers like columbine had been blooming. I got a little color from dried mule's ears plants and bushes changing colors and red berries.

Share your itinerary

Whenever you go, wherever you go and whether you're part of a group or not, let the folks at home know where you're going and when you plan to return.