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El Capitan pioneers to be honored

Published online on Wednesday, Oct. 01, 2008

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The House of Representatives this week approved a resolution saluting three climbers who were the first to scale Yosemite's El Capitan, North America's tallest free-standing granite monolith, a half-century ago.

"It's a landmark," said U.S. Rep. George Radanovich, R-Mariposa, whose congressional district includes Yosemite. "It was a really big deal."

The resolution honors Wayne Merry, Fresno resident George Whitmore and leader Warren J. Harding, who took 47 days over an 18-month period in 1957-58 to climb El Capitan's so-called "Nose" route. Theirs was a full-blown siege, complete with sizable support crew, fixed ropes that hung from the face for months at a time and established camps along the vertical way.

Today, climbers race up the same route in two or three days. Some have done it in one. In July, Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama ascended the 2,900-foot route in a record-setting 2 hours, 43 minutes.

The National Park Service is getting ready for its own commemoration of the event, scheduled Nov. 8. That was the date 50 years ago that the three men made their final push toward the El Capitan summit.

"What they did 50 years ago is really significant in the history of the park," park spokesman Scott Gediman said. "Climbing really turned into a sport here in Yosemite."

The Nov. 8 event in Yosemite Valley will include auditorium presentations by Whitmore and Merry.

Gediman said officials are working with Yosemite Climbing Association president Ken Yager on establishing a rock climbing museum that would display some of the gear used during the park's history.

Harding, known as a hard-living soul, wrote a memoir titled "Downward Bound" and died in February 2002. Merry went on to head the Yosemite Mountaineering School.

Whitmore has been active in the local Sierra Club chapter.

Staff writer Marek Warszawski contributed to this report. The reporter can be reached at mdoyle@mcclatchydc.com or (202) 383-0006.

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